In the early and mid 90’s I lived with Pete “The Swede” Mattson and Darryl White in an area of Whistler Creek affectionately known as “The Ghetto”. When the 1994 Canadian alpine Journal came out with this photo of the North face of Mt. James Turner, everyone was freak en out. “Dudes!! There’s a true Big Wall descent right over there on the other side of Billy Goat Lake”. We grabbed the maps and were gone within a few days.

One day to reach a camp on the Chaos Glacier, then another to climb and ski the face

Pete "the swede" and Darryl White on the north Face of Mt. James Turner

Darryl White dropping into James Turner's North Face

Ptor Spiceniks and Chris Kettles skied the exposed hanging icefall in the centre of the face on the same day making it an en-mass descent of a true classic (sections of 60 degrees and 2,000 vertical ft.) in our back yard.

Darryl, Swede, and myself moved camp and skied the North Coulior of Mt. Cook the following day before exiting trees to our truck at the wedge rock quarry. If memory serves, we were totally exhausted and we ran out of gas before making it back home; but that’s another story.